CanadaGrowSmart | Alternative to Lawns
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Eco Lawn
Ecoturf is a different approach to lawn, and has various brand names, such as Eco-lawn or Ecology Lawn. Designed to be more environmentally friendly and to need less maintenance than conventional lawn, once it is established (which takes a year or 2), it needs little summer water and generally no supplemental fertilizer.
It's a mix of various turf-type lawn grasses and waterwise broadleaf perennials, forming a dense lawn-type planting. The most commonly used broadleaf perennials are English daisy, yarrow and strawberry clover; perennial ryegrass is the most commonly used lawn grass. Clover provides nitrogen, helping eliminate the need for supplemental fertilization.
Ecoturf results in a meadow-like lawn, softer and less uniform than a conventional grass lawn because of the variety of textures. Formulated to present a generally green appearance year around, the lawn grass is green fall through spring, and the perennials are green during the summer, when the grass goes dormant.
Ecoturf seed is sown at a lower rate than conventional turfgrass (1 to 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet, as compared to 5 to 6 pounds), so the lawn seed will not choke out the perennials before they have a chance to become established. This means ecoturf will take a bit longer to get thick and lush than will a conventionally seeded lawn. During this period it is best to water it regularly as you would any newly seeded lawn. After this point, ecoturf only needs to be watered about once a month to keep the grass alive.
Tips for a successful ecoturf lawnBuy a formulation developed for the West coast.
It's a mix of various turf-type lawn grasses and waterwise broadleaf perennials, forming a dense lawn-type planting. The most commonly used broadleaf perennials are English daisy, yarrow and strawberry clover; perennial ryegrass is the most commonly used lawn grass. Clover provides nitrogen, helping eliminate the need for supplemental fertilization.
Ecoturf results in a meadow-like lawn, softer and less uniform than a conventional grass lawn because of the variety of textures. Formulated to present a generally green appearance year around, the lawn grass is green fall through spring, and the perennials are green during the summer, when the grass goes dormant.
Ecoturf seed is sown at a lower rate than conventional turfgrass (1 to 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet, as compared to 5 to 6 pounds), so the lawn seed will not choke out the perennials before they have a chance to become established. This means ecoturf will take a bit longer to get thick and lush than will a conventionally seeded lawn. During this period it is best to water it regularly as you would any newly seeded lawn. After this point, ecoturf only needs to be watered about once a month to keep the grass alive.
Tips for a successful ecoturf lawnBuy a formulation developed for the West coast.
- Soil must be well-prepared for a good result (as with any lawn); for best results, till the top six to 12 inches of soil, incorporating 2 inches of organic material for each six inches of soil.
- Spring or early fall are best times to plant for good germination and optimum weather conditions.
- It must be watered regularly its first summer season, like any lawn, to ensure good root development, and it takes a year or two for it to become fully established.
- Once established, ecoturf needs to be watered only once a month or so during summer to keep the dormant grass alive and in good health.
- For best results, grasscycle (mulch-mow) to return the nitrogen to the soil (additional fertilization beyond grasscycling is not recommended, as it can result in excessive grass growth).
- Ecoturf can be mown higher (two to three inches) and less often than conventional turf, although this will depend on personal preference and the time of year (more frequent mowing needed in spring with active growing, like any lawn).
Naturescape
Join others around the Lower Mainland and shrink your lawn! Moving toward a more natural landscape reduces your time mowing, raking, watering and your use of water and chemicals. Replacing lawn area with native plants also attracts native wildlife. Furthermore, a natural landscape retains more water than a lawn and can recharge groundwater and streams during droughts.
Remember you don't have to go "all natural" overnight. Even a few natives will improve your yard's contribution to a healthy watershed. Start with simple steps.
Pick Your Spot
To benefit most from your new landscape, plant natives next to trees, greenbelts, waterfront, or a neighbor's natural area. Start with the least used areas of your lawn, or places where the lawn is struggling. That shady corner may be better suited to natives than turf.
Choose Your Plants
Is your yard dry and sunny? Wet and shady? Select plants that will thrive in your yard's unique environment. Native plants are available for just about every condition. Find the right plant for the right place. Four trees and 16 shrubs in a 400 square foot area creates a dense planting; fewer plants will make a big difference too.
Check Your Soil
Dig a test hole. If your topsoil is less than six inches, add more, but find a weed free source! Build your soil with compost.
Plant
Create a natural appearance by clustering similar species, varying planting distances, and curving borders. Plant your new trees and shrubs between October and April and follow the specific planting instructions for your plants carefully. A general guideline is to place trees 10-15 feet apart and shrubs 3-5 feet apart. Plant directly into the lawn, creating a hole at least twice the width of the potted plant. Remove all grass within a foot of the plant's stem.
Mulch
Put clean corrugated cardboard over the grass around your newly planted trees and shrubs. Overlap cardboard sheets six inches and keep the cardboard and mulch four inches from the base of the new plants. Put four inches of compost, topsoil, grass clippings or a combination on top. Over time - voilá! Your grass is gone and your plants are mulched.
Maintain
Planting natives will not free you of all yard work. (Sorry.) You will need to water your new plants for their first two summers, and you'll have to keep after invasive weeds until the natives are established. Don't worry if your plants don't grow much the first year - they are developing healthy root systems and will eventually take off. Rocks or logs partially buried between grass and natural areas will help keep the grass where you want it.
That's all it takes! In a weekend, you can move toward less maintenance, fewer chemicals, more birds and a healthier watershed.
Remember you don't have to go "all natural" overnight. Even a few natives will improve your yard's contribution to a healthy watershed. Start with simple steps.
Pick Your Spot
To benefit most from your new landscape, plant natives next to trees, greenbelts, waterfront, or a neighbor's natural area. Start with the least used areas of your lawn, or places where the lawn is struggling. That shady corner may be better suited to natives than turf.
Choose Your Plants
Is your yard dry and sunny? Wet and shady? Select plants that will thrive in your yard's unique environment. Native plants are available for just about every condition. Find the right plant for the right place. Four trees and 16 shrubs in a 400 square foot area creates a dense planting; fewer plants will make a big difference too.
Check Your Soil
Dig a test hole. If your topsoil is less than six inches, add more, but find a weed free source! Build your soil with compost.
Plant
Create a natural appearance by clustering similar species, varying planting distances, and curving borders. Plant your new trees and shrubs between October and April and follow the specific planting instructions for your plants carefully. A general guideline is to place trees 10-15 feet apart and shrubs 3-5 feet apart. Plant directly into the lawn, creating a hole at least twice the width of the potted plant. Remove all grass within a foot of the plant's stem.
Mulch
Put clean corrugated cardboard over the grass around your newly planted trees and shrubs. Overlap cardboard sheets six inches and keep the cardboard and mulch four inches from the base of the new plants. Put four inches of compost, topsoil, grass clippings or a combination on top. Over time - voilá! Your grass is gone and your plants are mulched.
Maintain
Planting natives will not free you of all yard work. (Sorry.) You will need to water your new plants for their first two summers, and you'll have to keep after invasive weeds until the natives are established. Don't worry if your plants don't grow much the first year - they are developing healthy root systems and will eventually take off. Rocks or logs partially buried between grass and natural areas will help keep the grass where you want it.
That's all it takes! In a weekend, you can move toward less maintenance, fewer chemicals, more birds and a healthier watershed.